Moda i ve Kort: Mourning

[The Esrova Court 1480]

Published by the Mistress of the Wardrobe

10th of Tov ag Yermey, 429 E.S.

Dedicated to my loving husband

The Style of Mourning

 

Dearest Readers,

 

Moda i ve Kort has served dutifully under the prior rule of Koenas Emma, and shall continue to provide insight on Courtly fashion. Since the rule of Koenas Annika and her efforts to encourage the resurgence of Ruskan wear, the devoted Mistress of the Wardrobe is obliged to continue her service under the household of Koenas Amadea. To build upon legacies and provide regulation of fashion standards is a great honor. Without further ado, we present Moda i ve Kort: The Style of Mourning 

 

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"I wear mourning because it corresponds with my feelings."

 

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Mourning Periods

 

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Mourning periods are defined as a subjective amount of time spent publicly displaying the grief of a lost one. Appropriate times correlate with the personal relationship a pair shared. For those who are unaware, a proper guide shall be listed prior to the fashion of mourning.

 

Direct Family

Direct family consists of blood relations and spouses. For each, there are distinct amounts of time that it would be considered openly respectable to mourn a loved one. To spend more or less time would be seen as strange, marking the individual as overly or inadequately emotional over the demise. 

 

↠ For a spouse, 6 months

↠ For offspring, 1 year

↠ For a parent, 1 year

↠ For a sibling, 6 months

↠ For a grandparent, 6 months

↠ For an aunt or uncle, 3 months

↠ For a cousin, 3 months

 

Friends

Friendship is much harder to define an appropriate amount of time that is considered proper to publicly mourn. Usually, 1 months is sufficient. Although, in cases where the friend lost was a best friend or a long time and trusted companion, an extended amount of time is considered common. Yet more than 4 months is viewed as peculiar since the pair shared no blood relation. Rumors can easily spiral that the two were more than friends, which is exactly what is recommended to avoid. 

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Female Mourning

 

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For women in Hanseti-Ruska society, it is highly pertinent that they have decent mourning attire at all times in their life. You are more likely to see a woman in mourning than a man due to women's connections to their feelings and how it reflects in their fashion. 

 

Female Dress

While common fashion trends strive to be the most eccentric and show off the owners wealth, mourning fashion is a battle of who can be the most simplistic. It's considered unorthodox for a woman to don an immodest, colorful, and rich garment when in the mourning period. 

 

Colors consist of black, grays, and whites. For the loss of family, the primary color of the family is worn. Or, in the loss of a child or friend, the favorite color of the individual is worn as an accent. Longer veils are permitted so all hair may be covered. Commonly, veils are of bright colors, but in mourning they are either black or white. Sometimes, the veil covers the face and bust as well. More of a sheer fabric is appropriate when concealing the face. It is customary that questions are not to be directed at a woman wearing a veil over her face as the veil is meant to signify silence within the mourning period. 

 

Female Accessories

Despite the fact that mourning appearance is simplistic, accessories are good for covering the skin and differentiating between classes. 

 

Gloves

Gloves are considered a must-have in the cold climate of Haense, and are the perfect way to show modesty and close to god in the time of grief. They are made of tough fabrics with fur inlays to keep the fingers warm. They also protect the women's hands from hard labor. Small details may be embroidered onto the gloves as well, possibly in significance to their lost loved one. 

 

Lace Trim

Lace trimming is added to the edges of skirts and hems that require spatial separation from previous parts of the garment. Those of higher class and wealth can afford to commission renowned lace-makers that can tell stories through their craft. Special lace with family emblems, animals, or the story of one's life may be made. 

 

Ornate Jewelry

Jewelry is treated as something unwearable when mourning, but with careful treatment of the accessories, they can be worn. Rings besides family emblems and wedding bands shouldn’t be worn, necklaces, earrings, and headpieces are advised to not be donned. Kokoshnik are entirely improper for any status of an individual, even if an heirloom. Even royalty are expected to keep their tiaras and circlets minimal, often wearing just simple gold or silver without any gemstones. 

 

However, there are three exceptions. Firstly, if the jewelry belonged to the deceased it would be considered “carrying oneself with you”. Secondly, pearls are the gem of death and class. They are the only style gem that is relevant, and therefore can be worn. Lastly, Lorraine or Hussariyan crosses of any metal and style.

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Male Mourning

 

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Men in Hanseti-Ruska have a much more relaxed and less-strict code for mourning fashion, whereas women are seen as improper for not dressing in blacks after someone close has died. Men have much more freedom in their public display of loss. It would hardly be strange for a man to not display mourning attire at all. Subsequently, for those who do decide to follow the standards, you’ll find they are much like the women. 

 

Male Dress

Men in the Kingdom of Haense already tend to wear duller colors, so it would not be hard for them to put together a garment consisting of the proper mourning colors. These are black, gray, brown, and whites. The plainness of the colors can be accented by the family's primary color. An example would be if a member of the House of Barclay died, those related to him would don blue, green, and blacks. These colors could of course also be darker than their typical vibrancy to fit the occasion. 

 

Characteristically, men also wrap themselves in cloaks and furs. These styles would be in place of the female veil. They would be of darker colors and cover shoulders and the back of the individual. The most popular fur being black bear. 

 

Male Accessories

Once more, mourning fashion is quite simple and similar among genders. Men share the same standards as women for jewelry. The only difference is all the metal they choose to wear should be silver out of respect for the deceased. 

 

The main difference between their garbs is that instead of veils, men wear furs, cloaks, and hats. Hats cover one's head in protection from the cold, but also serve as a reminder of one's authority and power over harsh emotions. 

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Signed,

 

HER ROYAL MAJESTY, Amadea of Susa, Queen-consort of Hanseti and Ruska, Princess-consort of Bihar, Dules, Lahy, Muldav, Solvesborg, Slesvik and Ulgaard, Duchess-consort of Carnatia and Vanaheim, Margravine-consort of Korstadt, Rothswald and Vasiland, Countess-consort of Alban, Alimar, Baranya, Graiswald, Karikhov, Karovia, Kaunas, Kavat, Kovachgrad, Kvasz, Markev, Nenzing, Torun, and Toruv, Viscountess-consort of Varna, Baroness-consort of Esenstadt, Kraken’s Watch, Kralta, Krepost, Lorentz, Rytsburg, Thurant, Venzia and Astfield, Lady of the Westfolk, Protector of the Highlanders, etcetera.

 

Her Ladyship, Nikoleta Barbara Baruch

Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

Her Ladyship, Margot Sofiya Baruch

Head Assistant to the Mistress of the Wardrobe

Spoiler

OOC:

Skin mannequins by Melopenne

Skins in post by Shaydelicious, Kaayyla, and Milkyi!

 

Edited June 19, 2022 by The Nikirala Court

[Sander 3158]

Artiev Colborn wonders since when the crown, not the church, dictates through what rituals people should remember the dead.