KROTYAV I VE EDLERVIK - VOLUME III

[The Esrova Court 1477]

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THE METHOD AND MEANING OF DONNING FURS

 

 

ISSUED BY THE

 

ON THIS 6TH DAY OF JULA AG PIOV OF 491 E.S. 

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OLLOWING THE INCREASINGLY MULTICULTURAL reigns of His Majesty, Georg I and Queen Sofia of Hyspia, as described in previous Volumes of Krotyav i ve Edlervik, the explosion in the variety of people that have filled the Esrova Prikaz with warmth has not gone unnoticed. These publications from the Office of the Wardrobe seek to highlight the vibrant and beloved diversity among the Haeseni populace; with this particular piece dedicated to the record of all usages of Haeseni furs - both innovative and traditional alike.

 

Naturally, the migration to Aevos brought the Kingdom of Hanseti-Ruska to a more temperate climate than that experienced upon the continent of Almaris, albeit the brisk cold of Northern winters linger nonetheless. As a result, the adornment of furs has generally shifted in a more tastefully decorative direction in Valdev than the mortal necessity to wear pelts due to the frigid, and sometimes inhospitable, temperatures of Karosgrad. 

 

However, the exodus of Almaris brought King Aleksandr II and his Consort, Amaya of Venzia, to the throne. Under Queen Amaya’s guidance, and that of her Koravian Grand Lord, Fabian d’Arkent-Kortrevich, furs have since seen a sharp resurgence as a staple of Haeseni clothing – in part due to the pair’s desire to display and bolster the nation’s Northern roots. Nonetheless, the Queen-Dowager Sofia of Hyspia’s influence remains undiminished; with certain hides being a cornerstone of her own birth-House’s style.

 

This is not to attribute the prominence of furs in entirety to the Crown, as many different cultures and groups of people subsist within the Dual-Kingdom – sharing their own beliefs and practices regarding pelt adornment – but it is to highlight the striking variation and provide suggestions that may explain the Haeseni fascination with donning furs.

 

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I

 

TRADITIONALLY, WEARING FURS HAS has been a luxury of the wealthy, and necessity of the poor, to cope in the frigid Haeseni climate. For instance, the royalty and nobility are often at liberty to accentuate their attire with excessive quantities of pricey furs in order to boast their wealth, whereas the peasantry and gentry can often ordinarily only afford the bare essentials to keep warm with regards to fur quantities and stylings.

 

FUR LININGS ARE THE simplest form in which furs have been adorned upon clothes, as they are the most practical weapon used to combat the Haeseni climate. Animals have fur to shield them from the freezing temperatures - among other things - and the hardy citizens of Hanseti-Ruska have adapted to replicate this tactic by lining their clothes with the furs harvested from these same native fauna. Fur is also, when not utilized in this way, a waste product from the animal and would be discarded if not capitalized on.

Fur linings have, however, developed to become integrated into the constantly shifting fashion habits of the Haeseni, and are at present often apparent in hats, shoes, and when lining the insides and edges of clothes. This is usually both decorative and functional, as a fur lining may emphasize the border of a certain garment [₁] whilst simultaneously providing extra insulation to protect the wearer from the bitter climate. 

 

TYPICALLY RESTRICTED TO ONLY the noble and royal classes due to the excess expense, shoulder drapery is usually a superfluous addition to any configuration as it adds little internal padding and is moreso for appearances, unless utilized in place of a fur scarf or shawl. 

Shoulder drapery is more popular among males than females, as it likens the appearance of wide shoulders and is also a common feature on plated armour; attire worn bounteously more by men. Additionally, furry shoulder drapery can be as a hood or layer of a cape; a popular style being to adorn a slain beast as a trophy cloak by tenacious warriors [₂].

 

IN CONTRAST, FUR COATS are an optimised marriage of both fur linings and shoulder drapery as they are effective at insulating the wearer in harsh weather conditions, and they are typically more attractive than a mere fur lining. Fur coats also have added convenience when compared to other options, as a coat can be removed when indoors and can be worn with multiple outfits as required. However, fur coats are significantly more expensive than any other option due to the sheer increase in quantity of pelts required to make any single coat.

 

1] Cut/Styled sleeves, Outer vest, Hat rim, Collar, etc.

2] Houseguards, Military Soldiers & Officers, Knights, etc.

 

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II

 

IT CAN BE IMPORTANT to acknowledge not only how one wears their furs, but also which kind of pelt an individual dons at certain gatherings, as connotations regarding one’s social status, honour, character, profession, and even romantic intentions may differ depending on the creature the pelt was derived from.

For example, affluent individuals are typically more able to afford exotic, hard-to-catch, or specially-prepared pelts. Meanwhile, the lower classes are frequently spotted using the pelt of an animal that they encounter in their place of work or as a facet of their job, and is it, more importantly, often of a lower quality. Moreover, among certain game and tame species, the colour of the hide can affect its meaning also. 

 

DONNED REYNARD FUR ASSUMES a multifaceted significance, immensely dependent upon colour and context. Those who choose to don Reynard fur in red or grey are often indicated as individuals who consciously exude their own intellect and shrewdness. This choice of fur becomes a subtle, albeit discernible declaration of the affinity for the individual’s cunning nature; an artistic homage to the traits of the fox. Moreover, when presented as a gift, the fur takes on an intriguing undertone of passive-aggression, insinuating the existence of hidden knowledge or suggesting a subliminal vulnerability of the receiver. This gesture alludes to the status of foxes as a secondary species of prey. Alternatively, the bestowment of this fur to a lover carries a different connotation, one of deep affection. Additionally, when the pelt adopts a white hue, the fur serves as an emblem of Northern pride. The addition of any white fox pelt to one’s attire is all the more coveted due to the Grand Lord’s preference for it.

 

THE EMBELLISHMENT OF CANID fur holds a significant place within Haeseni society, most notably embodying a symbolism that resonates with strength, the prowess of the hunter, and exemplary leadership. To don the fur speaks indirectly to one’s power, position, or both– as it is commonly seen worn by soldiers of mixed standing upon the BSK hierarchy. This is linked to the wolf’s encapsulation of the valor of the hunter and leader of the pack. Just as the alpha of a pack guides its kin with wisdom and forethought, so too does the wearer steer the group with their prescience and sagacity. Often does it pay homage to their ability to lead: not through brute force alone, but also through an innate understanding and instinct they seem to possess.

 

MOOSE FUR IS MOST often seen donned by the men of Hanseti-Ruska, as it has prevalent associations with masculinity and immense strength. Yet, the narrative of moose fur is not entirely bound by tradition, as the sight of today’s women gracing themselves with the pelt is far more frequent. Distinguished lady soldiers and accomplished huntresses, driven by the same sense of vigor, now find resonance in the symbolism of moose fur. This evolution of tradition underscores the shifting roles and traditions of Haeseni society – broadening the avenues through which strength and honor manifest for both men and women alike.

 

STAG HIDE HOLDS A predominant position compared to other coveted animal furs, primarily owing to its revered association with the concept of kingship. This stems from the symbolism attributed to the stag’s antlers, as they are associated with a resemblance to the crown worn by the King. Notably, the esteemed status of the stag is additionally underscored by the tradition that prohibits hunting stag without the King’s company. It is because of this, that the utilization and adornment of stag hide is reserved for the King himself, or an individual who serves him closely, such as his Queen-consort or one of his most valued advisors.

 

PRIZED FOR ITS PRACTICALITY, bear fur offers solace in its warmth, combatting the mild chill of Valdev with ease. Yet, beyond its utilitarian virtue, this addition to one’s attire holds a myriad of symbolisms. Ursid fur is often donned by the wearer as a display of unyielding strength and unwavering endurance. Furthermore, the adornment of the fur is also a proclamation of valor and one’s honor. Worn in acknowledgement of an adversary conquered, it nods to those who have shown themselves to be formidable foes. Ursid fur also stands as a note of heraldry due to the symbolism that the bear holds within the House of Baruch; thus, this pelt bears a significant historical connotation within the esteemed Ducal House and is most seen donned by its members.

 

IT IS OF NO surprise that the fur of the beaver is known for its water-repellent qualities. With the hardy creature residing within freshwater habitats, it is only sensible to assume that the coat of the beaver is well adapted to its choice of home. Combined with its long top-coat and dense under-coat, these two properties create a hide perfect for the wintry Haeseni climate. Beaver hide, however, is not reduced to the ranks of simple coats or cloaks; the pelt is versatile, and is more often than not utilized in hats or other statement pieces upon one’s garb.  Moreover, the beaver’s hide is commonly associated with an industrious and hardworking soul and, despite its status as a luxury component, it is frequently gifted and worn in the garb of those practicing naturalism or homemaking due to the beaver’s association with such traits.

 

THE USE OF WOOL in Haeseni fashion is a time-honored tradition that speaks to both humility and practicality when donned in its rawest form. When utilized in more formal attire, however, the wool is usually dyed and woven in correspondence with the color codes of the Haeseni Court. Although fleeces are more commonly associated with the servility and humble origins of the shepherd that raises the sheep, wool can easily be manipulated to represent a number of more complex ideals according to any combination of colours.

 

GOAT HIDE IS WORN often in its raw form, much akin to sheep wool or leathers. The hide, notably, serves as a testament to the heritage and affiliations of the Scyflings, particularly members of House Colborn. Naturally, goat pelt has risen in popularity given the impressive repute of Baroness Elia Colborn-Stafyr who was especially fond of it, and whose celebrity preceeded the first Scyfling-born Queen taking the throne, Amaya of Venzia, also favouring it. This prominence among Scyflings is due to the customary practice of rearing goats in Scyfling groups. 

Goat-rearing is popular among all Scyfling sects – as such, the donning of goat hide is common among royalty, nobility, houseguards, farmhands, and more; with the animals themselves serving not only as a producer of goods, but also as a source of conviviality and comradery. For instance, the tradition of Scyflings gifting a blonde goat at a friend’s wedding is frequently spotted. Moreover, the colour of a goat pelt can indicate a plethora of meanings. A blonde pelt signifies wealth and good fortune – a subtle proclamation of the wearer’s character and conviction. Conversely, a white or grey pelt symbolises reliability, modesty, and piety. 

 

COW HIDE, OR LEATHER, is a simple pelt employed in a substantial number of items such as hats, belts, even handbags, luggage, and more. This versatility allows leather to represent esteemed flexibility, particularly for lively and busy people. Moreover, cow hide is relatively inexpensive yet valuable, making it accessible to the lower classes for their own use in clothing and accessories, or as a remarkably lucrative commodity. In addition, leather has links to the humble cowherds and farmers that raise the cattle to adulthood, imbuing cow hide with relations to modesty and dedication.

 

RABBIT FUR IS A rather unusual choice within the Courts, for it bears a myriad of meanings. When offered as a token of affection, rabbit fur signifies a gesture of warmth and closeness, an homage to the bond shared between individuals. However, beneath the surface of Haeseni etiquette lies the potential for a grave, albeit veiled insult conveyed through the gift of rabbit fur; the implication that the recipient is meek and incompetent – “small prey." Like the cautious rabbit, this message might subtly underscore the recipient's perceived vulnerability within the upper echelons of society. Nonetheless, the warmth that the fur of the rabbit provides marks this pelt as a practical choice for the frigid North, above all else. 

 

CAMEL HIDE, WHILE DISTINCTLY associated with the Hyspian people, was greatly popularised during the reign of Queen-Consort Sofia of Hyspia. Reportedly, to-be-Queen Sofia’s dowry amounted to 72 camels, paid by King Georg I to the Viceroy of Hyspia for his sister’s hand. Although Queen Sofia brought the prevalence of camel fur to the Capital, the hide never lost its prior associations with exoticism, novelty and peculiarity. 

Additionally, camel fur is consistently utilised by Southern merchants visiting the chill North to sell their wares, imbuing the pelts with mercantile and commercial connotations. Nevertheless, the character of the animal sources of camel hide have not been lost, and the adornment of camel is linked to the unending resilience and strength of these creatures that thrive in harsh environments, along with their ferrous wills, naturally insinuating that the wearer shares these traits.

 

Spoiler

Thank you to Copowl, Gutz, Liriniya, and everyone else who helped write!

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Her Royal Majesty, AMAYA OF VENZIA, 

Queen-Consort of Hanseti and Ruska, Princess-Consort of Bihar, Dules, Lahy, Muldav, Solvesborg, Slesvik and Ulgaard, Duchess-Consort of Carnatia and Vanaheim, Margravine-Consort of Korstadt, Rothswald, and Vasiland, Countess-Consort of Alban, Alimar, Baranya, Graiswald, Karikhov, Karovia, Kaunas, Kavat, Kovachgrad, Kvasz, Markev, Nenzing, Torun, Toruv, Valdev, and Werdenburg, Viscountess-Consort of Varna, Baroness-Consort of Esenstadt, Kraken’s Watch, Kralta, Krepost, Lorentz, Rytsburg, Thurant, Venzia and Astfield, Lady of the Westfolk, et cetera.

 

His Excellency, FABIAN OTTO D’ARKENT-KORTREVICH, 

Grand Lord of Hanseti-Ruska.

 

His Lordship, MURTAGH MATYAS AMADOR, 

The Protector of the Phoenix, Commander of the Amadorian Wardens, Master of the Wardrobe of Hanseti-Ruska.

 

The Right Honourable, ANABEL ELIA COLBORN

Countess of Malkovya, Viscountess of Venzia, Baroness of Bethlenen, Lady of Vorenburg, the Protector of Scyflings, Keeper of the Book, and Secretary of the Esrova Courts.

Edited August 17, 2023 by The Esrova Court

[tadabug2000 3514]

Sofia of Hyspia took note of the section on Camels fur. Her brother and his obsession of Camels will follow her till the day she dies. The Queen-Dowager found the whole thing amusing as she makes to send a copy of the missive via courier to her brother. "Hermano, how many Camels do tu have now? DIOS mio.."

[HIGH_FIRE 4124]

7 minutes ago, tadabug2000 said:

Sofia of Hyspia took note of the section on Camels fur. Her brother and his obsession of Camels will follow her till the day she dies. The Queen-Dowager found the whole thing amusing as she makes to send a copy of the missive via courier to her brother. "Hermano, how many Camels do tu have now? DIOS mio.."

 

“Never tu mind how many camels I have, we need them for very important purposes” the man would write back to his sister with a grin upon his face, planning how many camels he can get for the rest of his family…