Moda i ve Kort: Cosmetics

[The Esrova Court 1477]

Published by the Mistress of the Wardrobe

15th of Joma ag Umund, 437 E.S.

COSMETICS 

A young Haeseni woman looking through her box of cosmetics.

 

Dearest Readers,

 

Moda i ve Kort has served dutifully under the prior rule of Koenas Emma, and shall continue to provide insight on Courtly fashion. Since the rule of Koenas Annika and her efforts to encourage the resurgence of Ruskan wear, the devoted Mistress of the Wardrobe is obliged to continue her service under the household of Koenas Amadea. To build upon legacies and provide regulation of fashion standards is a great honor. Without further ado, we present Moda i ve Kort: Cosmetics and Routine. 

 

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Respectability

The respectability of makeup varies evenly between members of the clergy and court. It is felt that it is not generally a desired state, but women afflicted with illness and thereby unattractive were excused from the sin of vanity that cosmetics create. The desire was not to repel others or their husbands, and thus deemed an acceptable excuse for such enhancement.

 

To follow this, younger women or men are in no need for cosmetics and if their physical enrichment was notable it is frowned upon. Within the courts, a clean and undamaged face is the highest desire. That is why it is of superior dignity to focus on the care and tidiness of the face.

 

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Facial Enhancements

 

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Foundation

The climate of the Kingdom of Hanserti-Ruska takes a prominent stance in society and especially in beauty and cosmetics. The evan skin of the kingdom’s residents is a common genetic trait and is often a desired look within the Royal Courts. Smooth skin can be seen as a symbol of nobles, showing their lack of time laboring out in fields compared to commoners.

 

If it is impossible to diligently care for the skin, or the skin is damaged by ailments, there are other ways to obtain the same look. By applying a powder to the face, they can cover up the uneven skin and tone down any apparent blemishes on the face.

 

Face powder ingredients would depend on the apothecary and also the price a lady would be willing to pay. Simple recipes such as ground up wheaten flour would be easily accessible and purchased by the common woman, while ground up minerals would be collected by the noble lady as it would be easily applied and display a finer finish than that of the wheaten flour. Ground lily root would also be a common ingredient for a finer face powder, although this was much rarer to acquire and would come at a hefty price. 

 

One recipe book or a face powder cosmetic to smooth the face comes from Ve Karos Apothecary on the continent of Arcas. The method is as follows: 'There is a make-up that is very easy to make. Put very pure wheat in water for fifteen days, then grind and blend it in the water. Strain through a cloth, and let it crystalise and evaporate. You will obtain make-up which will be as white as snow. When you want to use it, grind up further to create a fine powder, and spread it on your face using a clean brush. Use the same brush to rid yourself of any patchy spots.'

 

To apply the powder you take a circle of fabric and softly dip into your container. Then, softly, dab the powder over your face in a single even coat. 

 

Lip Stain

A lip tincture or balm are seen as lip treatments for dried skin around the mouth and are commonly used by all ladies.

 

One ancient recipe for a lip balm described as a 'sweet smelling berry tincture that will keep the lips from chapping and make them moist and soft' comes from the book Secrets of Miss Analeisa Krutznov, published on the continent of Vailor.

 

The use of lip stain, besides its medicinal properties, was to emphasize the pale countenance. Contrasting the dark and vibrant colors of the Haeseni people, lip stain remains to follow more natural hues befitting its wearer. 

 

Eyeliner & Eyeshadow

The striking eyes of the Haeseni woman are incomparable to any other in the realm. Hues of color ranging from a mossy-green to deep blue display the variety of eye color which comes from the women. Mastering the art of color matching, Haeseni women have perfected their eye makeup routine which included applying the proper coloring around their eyes to add emphasis to their colors.

Earth toned colors from brown to deep purple are commonly applied around the eyes based on the natural color. Such colors are meant to purely emphasize the eyes, rather than applying vibrant makeup color which could easily detract from the natural beauty of the woman. 

 

Included in the eye makeup, kohl is commonly used to create a subtle pop of color. Applied on the under eye, kohl is lined along the waterline and can range from black to light brown colors similarly to eyeshadow. Once more, the kohl is applied to emphasize the natural color of the eyes and its color is commonly matched to the eyelashes or eyebrows of the wearer. 

 

Rouge

As stated above, pale skin is a common genetic characteristic within Haeseni society and even more so an expectation for nobility within haense. The application of rouge commonly follows the application of white face powder in order to not make the woman seem so ghastly that she is unhealthy. A balance must be made, and only some can perfect it. Rouge is meant to bring a healthy and natural glow to its wearer, as opposed to a heavier application which signifies a more loose and scandalous woman. 

 

Rouge is often created by natural ingredients, often being berries that create a red juice or a red clay mineral which can complement the skin tone of the wearer. Similarly to lip tint, rouge is created for a natural finish and should only be applied in order to emphasize the natural beauty of the woman.

 

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Bodily Enhancements

 

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A common collection of perfumes and creams

Nail Care 

Nails, along with hands, are often a big signifier of the social status of the individual. A commoner would have rough and damaged hands whereas a noble would have smooth hands void of any blemishes or visible work done by them.

 

In order to display and maintain their physical appearance, noble women would often use small scissors to clip and file them down to an appropriate length. Using a wooden pointed stick and a small pad of cotton, servants or their ladies would clean off any grime or dirt trapped within the nailbed or under the nail.

 

Perfumes

Reflecting the geography of the Kingdom of Haenseti-Ruska, and the environment of which its people live in, scent is a complimentary addition to a noble's routine. Nestled within the northern region, it is of no surprise that the perfumes of high society mimic the earthy and natural culture of the Haeseni. 

 

Scents can include spices such as cinnamon and cloves which reflect the cuisine of the nation, as well as muted scents such as magnolia flowers and black tea which have a slight sweetness to them. Men often adorn themselves with richer and deeper scents such as cedar or evergreen which complements the musky scent of the Haeseni man. 

 

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Evening Routine

 

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Daily washing would be a common activity for the Haeseni, as it would often double as a way to find warmth, especially during the harsh winter months. Within noble society, bathing was imperative to uphold the societal hygiene standards. Steam baths as well as private bathing are the norm within Haeseni society. Often, one can find a sauna built into a home of a noble which would commonly be used by high ranking members of the household. 

 

For private baths, herbs and oils would often be added to the water in order to act as a calming and medicinal addition through aromatherapy. 

 

For those who find themselves not in need of a full bath, oftentimes a washbowl and a jug was in use. Towels were in use to dry the body. Often, these towels would be made of soft fabrics which would not irritate the skin in order to keep the natural complexion of the skin smooth and without blemish. 

 

The face gets special attention in the evening. It is advised that you are supposed to wash your face with soap made from goat's milk which has been found to have smoothing properties. Afterwards, a face scrub made up of sugar, herbs and essential oils will be applied to finish clearing off any dead skin and grime from the day.

 

"First of all, let her wash her face very well with goat soap and with warm water, and with a straining of sugar scrub, let her wash herself in the bath.”

 

After washing the face, thorough skin care is necessary, so our lady uses a delicate hydrating cream. It is made from beeswax, rose oil and almond oil and smooth and dewy finish to the skin. 

 

Should a lady experience a headache before she retires for the eventing, a simple ointment of vanilla and lavender may be applied to her temple to assist in warding off the headache and assist in bringing about sleep. 

 

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Signed,

 

HER ROYAL MAJESTY, Amadea of Susa, Queen-consort of Hanseti and Ruska, Princess-consort of Bihar, Dules, Lahy, Muldav, Solvesborg, Slesvik and Ulgaard, Duchess-consort of Carnatia and Vanaheim, Margravine-consort of Korstadt, Rothswald and Vasiland, Countess-consort of Alban, Alimar, Baranya, Graiswald, Karikhov, Karovia, Kaunas, Kavat, Kovachgrad, Kvasz, Markev, Nenzing, Torun, and Toruv, Viscountess-consort of Varna, Baroness-consort of Esenstadt, Kraken’s Watch, Kralta, Krepost, Lorentz, Rytsburg, Thurant, Venzia and Astfield, Lady of the Westfolk, Protector of the Highlanders, etcetera.

 

Her Ladyship, Nikoleta Barbara Baruch

Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

Her Ladyship, Margot Sofiya Baruch

Head Assistant to Mistress of the Wardrobe