Moda i ve Kort: Men's Fashion

[The Esrova Court 1477]

Moda i ve Kort

Published by the Mistress of the Wardrobe

9th of Tov ag Yermey ES 416

MEN'S MODA

Portrait of Joseph I of Haense

 

Dearest Readers,

 

Haeseni fashion has escalated to new heights since the rule of Koenas Annika and her efforts to encourage the resurgence of Ruskan Fashion. As the newly appointed Mistress of the Wardrobe within the household of Koenas Emma, Her Highness Nikoleta, and her assistants shall continue to build upon Annika’s legacy and provide a new revitalization and regulation of fashion standards, breathing in new life to the Haeseni court and exploring our culture. Without further ado, we present Moda i ve Kort: Men's Fashion

 

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A Nikirala handmaiden runs around from room to room, handing out Moda i ve Kort to any lady or gentleman that was in sight! No one was safe from the news of the Mistress of the Wardrobe.

 

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Introduction

 

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For as long as Moda i ve Kort has been spearheaded under Her Highness, Nikoleta Barbara, mens’ fashion has been left unattended - yet requested insistently. After much turmoil, enough research has made it available to document the fashion of men in the kingdom of Hanseti-Ruska. Included below is a study from the Mistress of the Wardrobe and her wards into the fashion etiquette seen around the kingdom. 

 

Though it is only informative, we hope you find the inspiration you were searching for. 

 

Materials

Unlike female-oriented fashion culture in Haense, which tends to focus on the meaning of colors, mens’ fashion revolves around the quality of materials used. Cotton is less luxurious than linen, whilst linen is less luxurious than wool. Leather and cashmere, however, are examples of more expensive materials. It’s important to note that silk is also very expensive, but due to the cold weather in the north it isn’t seen as often and only worn to courtly occasions like balls and feasts. 

 

Iron and silver are more often used for embroidery or buttons. Gold is very valuable in the kingdom's culture, contributing to the idea of royalty and high nobility.

 

Colors and dye are only significant in the instance that one is donning the colors of an aristocrat’s family. For many of noble blood, they find great honor through the representation of their houses coloring the streets and backrooms of the kingdom. If not wearing their own family’s tones, common colors of the kingdom are red, yellow, and blue. This topic is more widely explored in the previous Moda i ve Kort edition. 

 

Coats and Capes

Due to the cold wind of the north, coats are a popular, and often necessary, accessory among all men. They come in all different sizes, shapes, materials, and colors. They are found to be more common among the urban populace than those who live in the countryside due to various formal occasions often occurring within the courts.

 

Those men of higher status, titled or otherwise, are encouraged to wear longer coats heavily laden with small yet noticeable details such as embroidery or fur cuffs to reveal the wealth of an individual. Certainly those with embroidered gold sprinkled into their coats are chief of the social strata. Coats should however be sure to not droop to the floor for it is neither convenient or of gentlemanly nature to have one’s coat trailed in mud.

 

Cloaks and capes are also used to drape down behind a man. They wear ones of dense fabrics and usually leave one or both arms free. A smaller rectangular or round cloak may also be worn, these are usually draped on a singular shoulder and clasped onto another. Richer men can afford to adorn their pelts with embroidery and pearls, typically lined with fur over the shoulder, to combat the chill. 

 

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Karosgrad

 

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A painting done by a Haeseni street artist of the entrance to Karograd. 

 

Around the City

Within the capital city, outfits tend to consist of a shirt, pants, boots, a waistband, a hat, and outerwear to protect from the elements. Younger bachelors are encouraged to wear brighter colors, which dull with age. Shirts are embroidered for different meanings, some being fertility and wealth. Shirts are also short and less decorative other than the embroidery patterns. Pants may be of wider legs for working men, and are sewn together with thicker and tougher fabrics. Outerwear like jackets, capes, and furs are all common, though less fur is seen in the city than in the country. 

 

Uniforms are also an important part of capital fashion. The Brotherhood of Saint Karl’s uniform is worn more and more by younger men on every occasion. Those patriots who often wear the Brotherhood’s uniform are found to be depictions of honor and great trust that which the uniform imbues. If ever a person has need of assistance, they only need to find a man in this uniform to be found with an abundance of aid. Typically worn aside this uniform is the beret, worn from the period of the Ruberni War and even before, it acts as a symbol of military authority.

 

In Royal Court

Within the courts, men are expected to hold themselves to a higher standard. A noble man’s shirt would be made of expensive silk or thin leather, or of a bleached “two-year-made” linen. A center cut is common, and is fastened with a fancy golden, silver, or pearl button. In contrast to city shirts, those for richer men or men at court are extremely long: knee or mid-calf long. 

 

Men are encouraged to dress in their finery at court. Dark colors in contrast with bright ones are commonplace, an example being a black shirt with red or golden embroidery or a red shirt with black embroidery.  Tafia head wear is worn for those who can afford it. Longer coats, almost floor length, are seen with fur lining. Shoes are smaller and made of a dyed leather, usually in the shade black. Family jewels and riches are shown off, usually to attract younger ladies during the Lifstala season. 
 

For Younger Boys

Children up to the age of about eight are commonly seen wearing mid-thigh long shirts with a waistband. They usually don family colors, or white with red embroidery. Darker colors, though not encouraged, are also worn. This tradition stemmed from the practicalities of children growing quickly, so not much use to tailor something fancy or expensive for them a few months apart.  

 

As they grow, boys begin to don furs and caps. Their shirts shrink to the waist and embroidery is often adorning their sleeve cusps and collar. Traditionally, a mother embroiders her sons shirts herself, to put love and other values into the cloth. An important style of shirt is the Kosoboroka which is worn by any class and consists of a skewed collar. 

 

Warmth is important for the youth, since they haven’t yet built up the endurance for the winter. During the cold months, mittens, socks, sweaters, scarfs, and hats will be sewn for the children. Poorer children might wear cotton yarn, while the rich can afford to have one's made of alpaca or cashmere. 

 

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Duchies

 

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The Duchies have long had their own signified culture, not only in traditions, but in wear. With Raevir, Waldenian, and Ayrian culture having an important and culturally significant impact on Haeseni history, it is of no surprise that the most noble of houses have implemented these cultures, as a means of representing their origins, or to simply separate themselves from the rest. The three current duchies, that of Baruch, Ruthern, and Barclay, are perfect examples of such, each representing their own house’s culture through speech, traditions, and what they wear. 

 

It’s important to note that the Mistress of the Wardrobe and her team highly encourage those in the duchies to fully expand on their own respective styles and fashion evolution in later publications. We see it as a necessity to ensure that each noble family has proper fashion representation, and where better to start than from the Duchies?
 

House Barclay

"Green and Blue I dress, Eagle on my Chest”

 

House of Barclay, a Waldenian house that has been in Haense for well over six generations, has made itself known for its military standing within the Kingdom. It comes to no surprise that the men of the house’s clothing resembles that of military uniforms. These costumes usually consist of long pants, typically dark in color, leather boots lined with fur, a jacket that covers the torso adorned with metals of individual accomplishments, a shirt plain in color, and sometimes a hat. During colder months, fur is draped upon the shoulders for an extra layer of warmth.

 

Another type of clothing often worn by the Barclay house is riding habits. This is due to their history of breeding horses, seeing as they are renowned for their horse riding skills. These adornments consist of longer pants, leather boots up to the knee, longer shirts, a jacket, leather gloves, and hats. Fur is more common in these than their usual attire due to the harsh winds whilst riding. Woolen capes are seen as optional, but advised that it can contribute to a warmer ride. 

 

The Duchy of Reinmar will sometimes bear to witness their nobles or rich merchants donning a formal Waldenian fashion, though it is not as popular or common as the more localized Reinmaren fashion stemming from the House of Barclay. This often consists of jackets made from silk, satin, wool or cotton that are accessorized with a belt around the torso. Embroidery on these jackets are often utilized to display wealth. The sleeves on these jacket sare similar to those of Kampfrau dresses that women don with stylized stripes and puffiness. The pants, poofy in shape, may bear a similar hue to the shirt with underpants adopting that of a plain color. Finally, simplistic shoes may complete the outfit. Fur atop the shoulders is optional, though advised for the warmth.

 

House Baruch

"By Mountain River and Coal”

 

A portrait of Duke Matyas Baruch of Valwyck wearing the traditional tartan dress of Ayr. 

 

The House of Baruch is a house with rich, fruitful history, meaning their stylistic choices have shifted many times over throughout the centuries. Presently, the House of Baruch does find themselves adorning plaid and tartan in many forms. The pattern is usually found on sashes, kilts, and even capes, in fact. Sashes and kilts are most frequently seen, however. Due to the family’s Waldenian roots, some aspects of their style used to resemble that of Waldenian fashion, though the Waldenian aspects of fashion have been adapted to fit the Ayrian undertones this House has adopted with time, mostly due to Valwyck’s climate and their sea-faring activities that require such. 

 

Furs, like in most Hanseti-Ruksan houses, are commonplace in House Baruch due to the chilly climate of Valwyck. Fur-lined boots that meet the knee and fur-lined sleeves are not uncommon, either. More importantly, leather belts styled with either silver or gold (depending on the wearer’s wealth) may be donned with their respective kilt or sash. Turtlenecks are also commonplace, seeing as they provide the utmost warmth for those who live in Valwyck. Of course, these are also typically lined with the finest furs, befitting those of this Ducal house. 

 

Jewelry is not as common among Baruch men, though rings and brooches that pin their sashes in place are not entirely rare. Golds and silvers are most frequently seen, with rich metalwork often adorning the pieces of jewelry they do wear.
 

House Ruthern

"By Bones and Barrows”

 

As one of the oldest continuously surviving houses of the kingdom of Hanseti-Ruska, the House of Ruthern has gone through various iterations and styles from their initial beginnings as reavers in the Crowsmarch, to the Palatines of Hanseti-Ruska. Their close association with the House of Barbanov over various generations has led to much of their clothes being similar to the Crown family’s, opting to wear the traditional heavy furs, Ruskan attire, and furthermore tending to choose darker colors on account of their house colors of gray.

 

Whilst typically frowned upon in the court, the House of Ruthern does tend to wear jewelry of necklaces and rings, brought especially into influence under the reign of Duke Ailred Ruthern. Those Rutherns well-tutored by the lord found their fingers often resplendent with trinkets, various rare metals and from the founding of their house, bone. Their necks were equally well adorned with gold, being sure to display their wealth against their muted clothing. 

 

The scions of the Ruthern House often find themselves blessed with strong facial hair that is found to be well-groomed and cared for, a hair not out of place. Finally, accompanied at their side is often found steel. Many a Ruthern have become known for their violent and violent nature with a dispensity for dueling and so always stand ready to throw down a challenge.

 

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Furs

 

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Furs have been a staple in Ruska since days before remembering, as the freezing winters make warm garments instrumental to survival. A man of any status is expected to own furs, either from hunting expeditions or shopping to keep warm. Many types of fur exist, since any animal with a pelt can be skinned and worn. Nevertheless, the Mistress of the Wardrobe found it appropriate to assign her assistant, Miss Agnieszeka Petrova, to research the meaning behind a few universally recognized pelts. 

 

Types of Fur

 

Ermine:

Referred to by some as ‘The Fur of Kings’, ermine has long been prized for its unusual coloration. The name refers specifically to the stark black and white winter coat of the stoat. A stoat’s winter fur bears a striking pattern of all white, save for the tip of the tail, which is an inky black. This type is reserved for royalty or cousins of the mainline. Due to the seasonal availability of ermine, the fur is expensive and difficult to find even for royalty.

 

Sable:

Easily recognizable by its blue-brown color, sable is the other fur that is characteristic of Haeseni nobles. As it’s nearly impossible to obtain high-quality sable through hunting, sellers must hunt it, and thus it is one of the most expensive furs available to the Haeseni people. Accessories of sable are rather uncommon, as most sellers find they can fetch a better price on larger garments like cloaks, coats, and mantles. However, sable-lined hats are common among noble men.

 

A noble of lower titles wearing a garment of sable may indeed be seen as the noble requesting recognition from their superiors, or perhaps they may wish to establish themself as being unusually wealthy, powerful, or important. 

 

Mink:

Although similar to its sister fabric, sable, in terms of softness and warmth, mink is much heavier, making it less expensive. The weight coupled with the fact that mink can be farmed without a sacrifice in quality makes it a high-end fur available to even those lacking in noble titles. Because it’s easily farmed, mink is available in a large variety of colors. The darker browns are generally used on men's garments, though lighter colors aren't unheard of. The access to lighter colors means that mink can be dyed, although the fur’s texture means that dyed mink is often of far lower quality, and may even be seen as tacky. 

 

Fox:

The fur of the fox is often used as a symbol of the ‘common people’ of Haense. Although foxes don’t take well to farming, they’re easy to hunt and trap, and fox fur is thick and coarse, meaning that it can easily be used for larger garments. This coarseness is what allows fox fur to be dyed without impacting the fur’s quality - as it is already of a relatively low quality, and the dyeing process doesn’t do much to make it worse. 

 

Dyed fox fur is used as trims on more colorful formal garments - hats, gloves, jacket lining and sometimes boots. Were it noble to wear too much dyed fur, however, they would seem rather cheap, and may lose some standing in the fashion world of Haense.

 

Ways They Can Be Worn

The commonality of fur to every single class of life makes it easy to wear it all over, yet most men decide to drape their shoulders with the fur. Other frequent ways it is worn is inlining to hats, gloves, boots, and jackets. Sometimes the length of fur draped from the shoulders falls to the knees and feet, which could be called a cape. Other times it is used as decoration for ends of jackets and outsides of hats. We have seen fur being used for most everything, the sky is limitless for its uses. 

 

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Accessories

 

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Sketches of winter hats by Nikoleta Morovar, 413 ES.

 

Hats and Headwear

Hats are worn by all different classes and come in many different shapes, sizes, and styles. They are usually lined with warm furs and cover the ears to keep the harsh winter chills away. Men are expected to remove their head wear only in church or in the home, and are not expected to uncover their heads for court, weddings, or funerals. There are many different styles of winter hats, but common types include the Kolpak, Tafia, and Yermolka. 

 

Men may find themselves wearing Kolpaks, a domed cap adorned with a narrow trimming of fur for the wintertime, usually made of cotton (if the man is lower in status) and decorated with buttons and clasps. Well-off individuals adorn themselves with Kolpaks made of satin and decorated with golden and silver threads, gems, and pearls. In the winter they are lined with expensive hunting furs.

 

The Tafia is a skullcap, worn indoors by the richer nobles. These small caps are sewn from soft leather that is dyed different colors or made of velvet, and adorned with gold, silk, and pearls. Another common type of headwear is called the Yermolka, which is a cap made of cloth, velvet, felt, or fur. The crown of it is broadening upwards. Sometimes they are decorated with fox tails and are topped with a silver tip. 

 

Military inclined men wear Murmolkas or Ushankas. A murmolka is a high cap with a flat crown of satin, velvet, or thin leather. They have fur wings at the sides that are buttoned to the top. Sometimes, they are decorated with pearly studs and an expensive white feather. Ushankas, in addition, are made entirely of fur and are worn mainly in the winter. They have longer wings on the sides that can be tied to the top or under the jaw for a different look. The dense furs may even offer protection to the head against blunt impacts. 

 

Waistbands and Weapons

Waistbands are a must-be part of most men's clothing in Hanseti-Ruska. Additionally, they are often donned with uniform, yet they can be dressed up and worn for a grandiose look. A belt should be worn on the waist, or under the belly, intended to twist twice around the body. Typically, they knot  these belts on the left side. However, in certain parts of Hanseti-Ruska, the left knotted belt is only intended for women, and men traditionally knot theirs on the right. Another stylized belt, called the kushak, is much wider and the ends are tucked in instead of tied, meaning the ends hang out instead.

 

Fabrics of belts depend on the purpose of the belt, along with the color and decorative aspects of it. Belts for special occasions are made of bright red, green, yellow, or blue wool with silken and golden thread. Their ends are decorated with tassels, pompoms, and beads. Everyday belts are woolen with a weft made of linen or hemp. These colors may tend to be more modest. Leather belts are worn by men only, most importantly.

 

A common accessory to the waistband includes the scabbard, as to take away a man’s sword is to blind the man. This should be especially noted to be necessary of both officers and all lords and peers. In recent memory, a great many members of the noble order have seen fit to better protect their honor, willing to offer out a challenge to those who would challenge or intend to damage it. Knights and traditionally armored soldiers tend to carry larger swords such as broadswords and the like. Nobles at court not wearing armor may instead be found with rapiers, shortswords, daggers, and other lighter, easier weapons to carry.

 

Crest Rings

Crest rings, or rings in general, are intended to show the wealth and power of an individual. For men, it is standard to find them wearing them if they are married, or on the Aulic Council. Some men display familial pride through these rings. These rings, as a result, usually have the family crest engraved into the side of the ring, or perhaps adorned with a family gemstone. A general rule is, the more rings a man has on his hands, the greater power he poses or desires to possess. 

 

Rings worn on the pinky represent family pride when worn by a man. These are usually bedecked with crests and family colors, so if you simply peer at the ring, you should know which family they come from. Rings worn on the ring finger are an indication of marriage. Rings worn on the index finger, additionally indicate if an individual is on the Aulic Council. Finally, rings worn on the thumb are for the wealthy.

Spoiler

OOC:

Outfit examples by Unbaed

Outfit examples by Zuziee

Outfit examples by Sarah

Outfit examples by Shay

Hat examples by Unbaed

 

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Signed,

 

Her Royal Majesty, Emma Karenina Barnabov-Bihar 

Queen-Consort of Hanseti-Ruska

 

Her Highness, Nikoleta Barbara Morovar

Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

Her Grace, Marie Lorraine Ruthern, Duchess-Consort of Vidaus

Lady Custodian of the Royal Courts

 

Her Ladyship, Erika Renate Barclay

Head-Assistant to Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

Her Ladyship, Fenika Valeriya Ruthern

Ward to the Mistress of the Wardrobe

Edited March 13, 2022 by The Nikirala Court

[esotericas 1558]

Agnieszka wonders why her signature was removed from the latest Moda. 

[1_Language_1 1671]

Spoiler

Thank you for including examples! It's very helpful for those who want to try and do male fashion :)

 

Annie flips through her issue of Men's Fashion, gently thumbing each page. "Hm, sewing is an idea."

[Borin 5259]

"wer rastet, der rostet" bishop viktor says, disappointed at the use of the wrong house words!