Moda i ve Kort: Kokoshniks

[zuziee 3222]

Moda i ve Kort

Published under the Mistress of the Wardrobe

8th of Tov ag Yermey, 405 E.S.

The Royal Courts Reform: Kokoshniks

An example of the Duchess Kokoshnik, illustrated circ. 405 E.S.

 

Dearest Readers,

Haeseni fashion has escalated to new heights since the rule of Queen Annika. As the newly appointed Mistress of the Wardrobe within the household of Koenas Emma, Prinzenas Nikoleta and her assistants shall continue to build upon Annika’s legacy and provide a new revitalization and regulation of fashion standards, breathing in new life to the Haeseni court. Without delay, we present Moda i ve Kort: the rules of kokoshnik fashion within Hanseti-Ruska. 

 

These guidelines are an important read for any Lady wishing not to offend. 

 

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"The Kokoshnik headpiece has always remained a staple piece in Ruskan fashion, adorned by many women of all social classes.”
 

The Kokoshnik was originally brought into fashion by Dowager Countess Tatiana Kortrevich with one made of simple cloth, which represented her status at the time. It is in her memory that the Courts would like to expand upon this culture, as simple greed has caused too many to push the limits of acceptable use of such headpieces. These headpieces and veils are to be donned by women of varying noble status, reflecting their prestige, as is detailed below. 

 

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Guidelines

 

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Koenas

The kokoshnik of the Koenas should always stand out and be the most extravagant in whatever room she walks into. If she wears something of plainer design, then all must wear something plainer. If she is not wearing one, then none shall wear one. Such is the traditional etiquette we must uphold. Her kokoshniks will stand out and sparkle, and will traditionally be made from solid gold. These are to be decorated with rare gems such as Tanzanite or Jadeite, with strings of large white pearls. The Koenas embodies the idea of piety, being a figurehead for the younger women of the Court, and as such she will don a veil underneath her kokoshnik.

[!] A Portrait of Nikoleta Barbara’s Royal Kokoshnik, circ. 397 E.S

 

Royals

The royals, especially older princesses, are allowed almost the same rights as the Queen’s kokoshnik, though they must abide by the same rule of humility that applies to the whole court. None are allowed to surpass the Queen. Pearls should be smaller in size, and gems easier to locate like diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. They shall be allowed such privilege as wearing a pure gold-colored kokoshnik if they hold royal blood. Otherwise, they may bear the complementary metals of rose or white gold. Veils are worn proudly by older princesses, traditionally in a cream or ivory tone, though their chosen color is not restricted to just those. Ribbons are likewise found upon these headpieces in bright ombre fabrics. 

 

The Royal kokoshnik serves as the image of high class, wealth, and respect.

 

Duchesses

Duchesses’ kokoshniks display their high standing in noble society, whilst simultaneously convey modesty in comparison to royals who attend public events, so as not to offend. Though basic golden embroidery is lovely, these kokoshniks should be on a cloth base. Duchesses are not permitted to wear solid gold designs. Even with the golden embroidery, gems and pearls are completely disallowed. These types will be thinner in style and are usually paired with a colored veil. White is deeply frowned upon.

 

Nonetheless, if they choose a lesser metal like silver, gems like rubies and emeralds are appropriate and encouraged to dot the headpiece. Pearls may line the bottom of the kokoshnik, but strings of such hanging down might be considered greedy amongst the other courtiers. A Duchess may also style her kokoshnik with colored ribbons, embroidered thread, and beads, should she desire such.

 

Countesses

Next in our peerage hierarchy are Countesses, who cannot wear gold upon their kokoshniks at all. Silver is a much more appropriate representation of the family's fortune. Thicker designs, like those of the royals, are seen, but this is simply to counter their lack of pearls or other adornments, as these are disallowed. A Countess should never tie her kokoshnik in the back like duchesses or royals in an elaborate veil but instead should favor using colorful beads to hang from either side of their kokoshnik. It is a simple gesture, but it distinguishes them from the lower houses.

Spoiler

Queen:

*made by Alexi

Royals:

Duchesses:

Countesses:

[!] Prinzenas Anastasya Isabel’s Royal Kokoshnik, illustrated here, circ. 397  E.S

 

Lower-Titled Ladies (Viscountesses, Baronesses)

It is highly inappropriate for a Lady of lower status to wear a kokoshnik of anything more than cloth, save for when she is attending an extremely formal event- here, silver may be worn. In situations other than these, however, a lower-ranked Lady would be permitted to decorate her cloth kokoshnik with embroidery, fur trims, and may have beads to decorate the bottom line of her kokoshnik. Pearls or other similarly valuable decorations would be incredibly excessive and considered inappropriate. 

 

Unmarried or Untitled Noble Ladies

Should a woman find herself in the unfortunate situation of being unmarried or untitled, she must refrain from wearing a kokoshnik. If she happens to be married to an untitled man and is untitled herself, she must restrict herself to the most simple of kokoshniks. Solid-colored, non-embroidered cloth is standard, with a fur trim should the lady desire one. Once more, these are limited to extraordinary and formal affairs. Kokoshniks symbolize the status of a Lady, and one must dress accordingly. 

Spoiler

Lower Titled Ladies:

General Noble Ladies:

If the Kokoshnik is an Heirloom?

Heirlooms are specially crafted historical items that are passed down family lines. As declared from Koenas Emma’s courts, we recognize these artifacts to have rights. Those families who are privileged enough to obtain such an heirloom will be permitted to wear the historical headpiece at appropriate functions. There are conditions, however, in that traditionally it is only the titled Consort of the house or their firstborn daughter who may wear it, rather than a distant cousin. Donning an heirloom is considered more appropriate than buying an entirely new piece, as prestigious history is therefore honored.

 

A Clarification on Appropriate Occasions:

Those Ladies who are not married, or of a lower class and cannot wear kokoshniks in casual settings might be left with a single question… When can I wear it? To answer, it is permitted at lavish celebrations and feasts, as well as if their family hosts an event. It is imperative that a true respectable Lady does not make mistakes, and wears an elaborate headpiece only to get involved in a rough-and-tumble event. This, of course, is all quite logical. 

 

The single exception to this rule is a Lady’s wedding day, on which it is permitted for her to decorate her kokoshnik with almost anything, including using a golden metal, as long as the piece does not resemble a crown. 

 

Dowager, Abdication, or Divorce

A lady in any circumstance like this shall revert back to her original status kokoshnik with the exception of dowagers. Dowagers will return back to their old style, but with the parting gift of a singular string of pearls that they may choose to don in any fashion upon their kokoshnik. This is to commemorate their passing husband. 

 

Those who do not abide by these rules must be prepared to be asked to leave public events, or remove the offending kokoshnik. 

If you spot a lady wearing one that is inappropriate for their station, report to Prinzenas Nikoleta or Countess Margot

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Signed,

Her Royal Majesty, Emma Karenina, Queen-Consort of Hanseti-Ruska

 

Her Royal Highness, Princess Nikoleta Barbara, Duchess-Consort of Akovia

Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

Her Grace, Marie Lorraine Ruthern, Duchess-Consort of Vidaus

 Lady Chamberlain of the Royal Courts of Hanseti-Ruska

 

Her Ladyship, Anya Ludovar of Otistadt

Former Assistant to the Mistress of the Wardrobe

Spoiler

OOC:

New Kokoshnik rules in Haense!!! How exciting

 

Thank you so much @shay for the art! She did some cool pieces for this document.

The rest of the people who worked on this to make this possible!

@sarahbarah

@wowsirss

@livrose

@Mady

 

[livrose 1594]

As this particular missive settled on her desk, Emma grinned, eagerly picking it up to see the finished product of her council's hard work. She had barely got through the first few lines, all the while tapping her quill on the edge of her table before she set it down, murmuring to herself... "A-ha! An excuse to commission more kokoshniks. The Mistress of the Robes has outdone herself."

 

Raising her voice, then, she called out to her husband where he sat in the next room of the Nikirala- "I have a Tuvmas present idea, dear!"

[zuziee 3222]

Prinzenas Nikoleta looks back at her published word, tracing a finger over the freshly dried ink with pride. Gently handing it off to her daughters as she idly call them over, "Annalisa, Cazimiera - what do vy think?"

@Alexi_  @champ

[CopOwl 1668]

The distant, and once more mourning, Adrianna Darkwood reads the newest missive with a smile on her face, "Very gutte.." she muses idly, then pausing for consideration and reaching up to gently remove the blue cloth Kokoshnik donned on her own head.

She considers it for barely a moment before nodding to herself and murmuring, "Gutte work from the Mistress of the Wardrobe... Und her team... once more." She adds.

[esotericas 1559]

Adelaide watches as a nondescript brown bird enters through her window, bringing news from Haense, as it often did. As she reads the missive, her shoulders slump, and she rests her head in her hands, mumbling to herself. "Why did I throw this all away?"

[sarahbarah 5021]

Marie nodded eagerly as she presented the missive to her daughter Dorothea @sunflowerist who probably couldn't even read yet. "On to colours," declared the Chamberlain as she sat at her desk and began to scribble away!