THE REVIVAL OF WALDENIAN FASHIONS IN HANSETI-RUSKA

[sarahbarah 5021]

Moda i ve Kort

Published under the Mistress of the Wardrobe

10TH OF VZMEY AG HYNK, 403 E.S.

 

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THE REVIVAL OF WALDENIAN FASHIONS IN HANSETI-RUSKA

 

A STUDY ON THE WALDENIAN FASHIONS OF HAENSE PENNED BY THE HAND OF HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS PETRA EMMA 

 

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VA VE EDLERVIK, 

 

Recently, it has come to my attention that the Haeseni women of Waldenian and Reinmaren descent feel that their fashions are underrepresented in the royal courts of Haense. Considering the Waldenian and Reinmaren people have contributed to the formation of significant Haeseni subcultures, it would be an injustice to let them fade with time; Thus, I’ve written this study on the garbs of what the Waldenian and Reinmaren women of Haense wear, so as to preserve these beautifully ingrained cultures and to honour them appropriately. With the publication of this study, it is my hope that Waldenian and Reinmaren fashion is revived within the courts of Hanseti-Ruska. 

 

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FRAUENTRACHT - AN OVERVIEW

 

“Frauen” and “tracht” -  Directly translated from Waldenian, meaning ‘woman’ and ‘to wear’ respectively, this encompasses what a woman wears in accordance with her social status and occupation in the Waldenian and Reinmaren cultures.

 

This style of clothing is characterized by its unique assembly of patterns, plaited trims, intermixing of materials like silk, velvet and gold, high collars, puffed sleeves, and dress ‘guards,’ which are colourful bands of  differing fabrics that may line one’s collar, skirt, or sleeves. 

 

Within Frauentracht, a lady’s status and wealth shall determine the overall quality of her wardrobe, though it is imperative that modesty is practiced and maintained, no matter her status.

 

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I. THE DIRNDL

 

A DIRNDL is a casual Waldenian gown comprised of four main elements: a blouse made of silk, lace, or cotton (depending on the wearer’s status), a bodice to secure the blouse beneath it, a full, circular-cut skirt in which the bodice is sewn to, and an apron that is worn atop the skirt. 

 

Depending on her relationship status, the ribbon that secures the apron to the skirt may be tied in an array of different ways:

 

If the apron is tied on the left, it symbolizes that the woman in question is open to courtship. 

If it is tied on the right, it insinuates that the woman is currently courting or already married.

If the apron is tied in the center, it symbolizes the wearer’s youth.

If it is tied in the back, it indicates the wearer’s status of widowhood. 

 

Bodices on the dirndl may also be accentuated with colorful fabrics, shawls, embroidery, plaited ribbons, trim, or lace. Typically, the more decorated bodices demonstrate ones’ higher status and wealth. Fine fabrics and intricate embroidery are usually reserved for women that hail from high-ranking families. Women of lower status should be inclined to adorn the bodices of their dirndls with ribbons or lace only. 

 

To keep warm in the winter, women tend to stitch wool or cotton to the inside of their dirndls. Oftentimes, they will also style themselves with coats that are cut much like the dirndl, though the neckline is usually much higher and might be lined with fur if one is wealthy enough to afford it. Wool or cotton mittens of a matching colour may be worn as well.

 

Note that these dresses are intended for everyday wear and are informal. Should one show up in court donning one, it would seem impolite and improper.

 

A depiction of two young Reinmaren women wearing brightly coloured dirndls.

 

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II. THE KAMPFRAU DRESS

 

THE KAMPFRAU DRESS is a traditional Waldenian gown, typically identified by the gathered, poofy waistline and ‘slashed’ patterns that are neatly embroidered into the skirts of the gown. These slashed patterns can be embroidered using silk, velvet, wool, or linen, depending on the wearer’s wealth and status within nobility. Some may also include “gollars” which fold over the shoulders and line both the neckline and upper collar, as seen in the depiction above.

 

This type of gown is also characterized by puffed-up sleeves, in which fabrics such as silk, wool, or velvet are gathered and stitched together to form the shape of each puff respectively. An excess of finer fabrics on the sleeves usually indicates the wearer’s wealth or status. Moreover, the inner stitchings of the skirt and sleeves may be lined with fur or wool to fend off any northern chill.

 

The Kampfrau dress can also come in a variety of colours, though the most common shades are green, blue, and white as per the house colours of the notable Waldenian and Reinmaren lines within Haense. 

 

Higher-ranking women within nobility are encouraged to don only the finest of fabrics when fashioning themselves with the Kampfrau dress, specifically silk or velvet. Regarding wardrobe etiquette, it would seem improper for them to don fabrics like wool or linen, which are reserved for the lower classes.

 

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III. THE BAUSCHIG GOWN

 

THE BAUSCHIG GOWN is a formal Waldenian gown intended to be worn by those of royal or high noble status only. It is one of the most iconic staples of Reinmaren and Waldenian fashion, most notably denoted by a few distinct characteristics: a tall collar of velvet or silk, an open, straight-laced bodice to secure the chemise under the dress in place, and intricate, detailed embroideries lining the sleeves. A band known as a “brustfleck,” which is usually bejewlled or embroidered with silk or gold, covers the top half of the bust.

 

The designs of the sleeves slightly vary, though they are typically puffed as per the gown’s name, which translates to “puffy.” The sleeves also might have an array of embroidered patterns, and are segmented with bands of differently coloured fabrics and materials. Velvet and silk are the most common and used interchangeably, denoting the wearer’s high status. The skirt of the gown is most often pleated, garnished by guards of differing colours at the hem of the skirt.

 

Some dresses may not have high collars or puffed sleeves. The overall design of the dress is quite versatile and can be spruced up with various embellishments like embroidered patterns and gemstones should the occasion call for it.

 

A depiction of a noblewoman donning a traditional bauschig gown.

 

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IV. HATS AND HEADDRESSES

 

THE WULSTHAUBE is a Waldenian headdress that can be fashioned by any woman of any ranking. It includes three main components: a thin “schleier” (veil) typically made of silk or linen,  an “unterhaube” (undercap) to keep the wearer’s hair in place, and a “wulst” (padded cushion) to secure the placement of the undercap and veil. 

 

Usually, the intricacy of these headdresses is what separates the common people from the nobility. 

 

A wulsthaube that is greatly embellished with jewels and threads of gold typically symbolize one’s royal or high noble status. Fine floral prints and embroidery are not uncommon among the higher classes either. 

 

 A depiction of a Reinmaren Duchess wearing a wulsthaube embroidered with delicate golden thread.

 

For the lower nobility and common people, wulsthaubes are typically limited to simple fabrics like linen and wool, though they may style themselves with silk for special occasions like weddings, balls, and court. 

 

The wulsthaube is quite a popular staple in Waldenian fashion, as it promotes both modesty and privacy for the wearer. They are quite versatile, can be worn for many occasions, and are most commonly seen throughout Haense.

 

 

 

 

THE TELLERBARRET, or “platter hat,” is another traditional Waldenian headdress, often seen in many shapes, sizes, and colours. They are typically pinned into a lady’s hair and are worn flat atop the head. The Tellerbarret may also pair with a wulsthaube or a goldhaube, as seen in some depictions.

 

 

A depiction of a Reinmaren noblewoman styling herself with a velvet tellerbarret and a  Kampfrau gown.

 

Undecorated wool tellerbarrets are often fashioned by the lower classes, though a few plumes may be added depending on the wearer’s taste.

Tellerbarrets that are garnished with pearls, gemstones, or golden thread are strictly reserved for high nobility and royalty. Upper classes may also choose to style their tellerbarrets with extravagant plumes and luxurious fabrics like velvet. 

 

 

 

 

THE GOLDHAUBE, or “gold hat,” is an extravagant Waldenian headdress reserved for duchesses, princesses, and queens only. It is secured to the wearer’s head with pins and is intended to keep a lady’s updo in place whilst displaying her status and wealth in a public setting like court. 

 

The goldhaube is quite expensive to make, considering the cloth it is made of is pure woven gold. A symbol of utmost wealth and status, the goldhaube can also be richly bedecked with pearl or crystal beads in an array of different patterns or shapes. 

 

 

A depiction of a Waldenian duchess fashioning herself with a velvet tellerbarret and a bejewelled goldhaube simultaneously.

The goldhaube headdress can be adorned alone or can be paired with an extravagant tellerbarret made of fine velvet. However, it is up to the wearer in question to ensure that the prestige, modesty, and elegance of the goldhaube is upheld.

 

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V. HAIRSTYLES

 

 

The intricacy of a lady’s hairstyle is not as prevalent within the Waldenian and Reinmaren cultures since the hair is often pinned beneath a lavish hat or veil of some kind. However, there are a few distinct hairstyles that are fashionable amongst the Waldenian and Reinmaren ladies of Hanseti-Ruska. 

 

 

 

 

THE BRAIDED KNOTEN is the hairstyle most frequently donned by the Waldenian and Reinmaren women of Haense. The bun-like do can be fashioned by any lady, though if the woman is of high status, she may thread pearlescent beads into her braids accordingly. Otherwise, she may style her braids with simple ribbons and thread.

 

 

A proper depiction of the braided knoten hairstyle.

 

 

The hairstyle is quite versatile, as it can be donned during day-to-day activities by any lady of any age. When styled with ribbons, coloured thread, or pearls and beads respectively, it is appropriate to wear at court or other formal events like balls.

 

 

 

 

THE GEFLOCHTENER SCHWANZ, known as the “braided tail” in Common, is an elongated braid that rests upon the lady’s back. This hairstyle is also quite versatile, as it can be styled in many differing fashions for many occasions. 

 

The braid can be styled with ribbons or with strings of delicate pearls depending on the wearer’s status. A caul, which is a disk-shaped piece of netting utilized to further embellish one’s hairdo, is also quite popular with the geflochtener schwanz. 

 

 

 

 

Two differing variations of the hairstyle are depicted here.

It’s important to note that cauls and pearlescent beads used to style one’s hair are reserved for the upper classes only. Common ladies should refrain from using such materials and instead use colorful ribbons and threading to embellish their hairstyles with.

 

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CLOSING REMARKS

 

With the recent resurgence of fashion etiquette and reform, it is my hope that the broadening horizons of culture and fashion are eagerly accepted by the Haeseni within our courts. With that being said, those within the courts should be mindful of their status and remember to appropriately dress in accordance with such, as per the expectations of Frauentracht. Wardrobe etiquette is an outward representation of the utmost respect, not only for yourself, but for your fellow courtiers, and will ultimately be enforced by the Mistress of the Wardrobe. 

 

 

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SIGNED,

 

Her Royal Highness, Petra Emma, Duchess of Karosgrad

 

Her Royal Highness, Nikoleta Barbara, Duchess-Consort of Akovia, Mistress of the Wardrobe

 

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[OOC]

Spoiler

BIG thanks to my friends for helping me take on this project, reading it, and letting me ramble about renaissance fashion!! It was so much fun to write, I really genuinely enjoyed it <3 A shoutout to zuzie especially for reading over it and making sure it all made sense before I could post it <3

 

@zuziee

 

I also consulted a NUMBER of sources while writing this post, so I'm going to list them here if anyone is curious on real life German fashion!

 

https://historyplex.com/traditional-german-clothing

https://www.iamexpat.de/lifestyle/lifestyle-news/tracht-guide-traditional-clothing-germany

https://www.oktoberfestusa.com/meaning-behind-which-side-to-tie-the-dirndl-on/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2016/12/16/short-notice-german-garb/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2021/06/06/german-headwear-wulsthaube-examples-planning/

https://annevonwiese.com/2020/06/29/red-trossfrau-kampfrau-dress/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2017/02/18/cranach-gown-overview/

https://marleina16thwardrobe.blogspot.com/2018/11/wulsthaube-stechlein-and-other-german.html

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2016/05/24/german-hats-first-attempts/

 

 

Spoiler

ANOTHER big thanks to the people who are contributing skins to the Waldenian/Reinmaren revival effort <3 Here are some FTU skins if you are interested in getting involved with this culture! I'll add more as more skins are made :)

 

https://www.planetminecraft.com/skin/lotc-ftu-soft-cream-dirndl/

https://www.planetminecraft.com/skin/lotc-ftu-barclay-dirndl/

 

 

[LithiumSedai 4837]

"More or less correct, I'd say," commented the Lord Vandalore, forwarding the missive to the Waldenian diet and his spouse both, mailing his approval to the authors in the meantime.

 

 

[MunaZaldrizoti 5749]

Barbara Morovar, despite her rather obvious disregard for fashion, seemed intrigued at the study. She imagined what it might be like to wed a Barclay, and wear a platter hat.

[zuziee 3219]

Prinzenas Nikoleta smiled happily over the first real post of Mode i ve Kort. "Petra is a fine writer." she'd ponder out loud before shoving a copy into her daughters hands "Vy should dress like this. Ea want to see people dress like this."

[Zanthuz 1836]

The deceased Haeseni scholar Sir Viktor Kortrevich stamps a Piovian seal of approval on his copy of the study. From the seven skies, he'd somehow send some sort of signal to his nephew, Hieromar to add this study to the Directory of Haeseni Works publication.

[Tigergiri 2866]

23 minutes ago, LithiumSedai said:

"More or less correct, I'd say," commented the Lord Vandalore, forwarding the missive to the Waldenian diet and his spouse both, mailing his approval to the authors in the meantime.

 

 

Currently on wardrobe strike for her husband and his own choice of clothing- or lack there of.  Pulling up the missive she read it over and send it back to  The Lord Vandalore  with the note “I’ll wear whatever outfit you chose when you get out of your armour. Till then I’m still going to wear my wedding dress.” 

[beetle 2760]

Isabel Fenika Mondblume decides it's time to sew and make new dresses to show off her heritage!

 

[MadOne 3387]

Dietrich, upon reading the work on his own culture smiles upon the Emma's efforts, beaming at the thought of the Reinmaren and the Waldenian cultures being an object of study!

 

He would then spend an evening preparing a bouquet of carefully arranged Reinmaren roses of white, red and black planted by the Duke-Emeritus Friedrich Barclay, to be sent to the Princess as a gesture of thanks. 

@sarahbarah

 

After a night of arranging roses, Dietrich would send a copy of the missive to the Duke of Valwyck, who would note an impressed tone on the youth's words. He would further advise the Duke to follow up with a missive on Ayrian fashion!
 

@Gusano

[GoodGuyMatt 7065]

Initiate Ernst Barclay smiled the Son's Smile as he read over the missive. He dipped his head then, saving it amongst his new book collection in his new room in Reinmar "What good and hard work from Her Highness!" he exclaimed

[CopOwl 1668]

Lady Adrianna Darkwood née Barclay beams brightly upon reading through the study in detail. "Du are ein master of dur craft, Petra-!" The Reinmaren scholar-woman exclaims, "Ich do nicht know if even Ich could have made such ein detailed study, very well done. Ich am so glad für such ein resurgence in our own courts, Her Royal Majesty shall be pleased." The Surgeon General continues, absolutely ecstatic at the news and the new availability of such wonderful fashions for herself to wear. "Und ein lovely opening act für the new Mistress of the Wardrobe, Ich look forward to seeing what else she can produce in future." The proud lady adds, "Danke für accepting mein suggestion, Petra. Ich must send du ein thanking letter." She smiles before sending summons for her favourite dressmakers to begins crafting herself a new wardrobe. She also draws out her own stitching works and makes plans to busy herself on Waldenian fashions over the coming years!

Edited December 16, 2021 by CopOwl